Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Eat, sleep, climb, dance.

It’s open season at Smith Rock. Temps are sick, people are psyched and I see some sick ascents on the horizon. Many people will agree that Smith Rock climbing can sometimes be a mental nightmare, but that nightmare is balanced by one of the friendliest climbing communities in the country.

Living out here in the country has it’s up’s and down’s, but I’d say mostly “up’s”. The Good Earth… Terrebonne is home to America’s first sport climbing crag, surrounded by beautiful countryside and endless mountain views. But with such a small sleeper  community, it’s very hard to have a social life. Winter is brutally boring if the sun doesn’t shine. Redmond sucks. Fall and Spring are pretty happening in the climbing world, but then what. The Terrebonne Depot is super fun, not late enough. The Fan (aka The Big T’s)? NEVER! Ha! Well, I assume you’ve seen Field of Dreams? We created the Field of Dreams, except it’s 8 kegs, a bar, stage and dance floor by a field.

This is how. I’ll try not to spray to much. Last Winter I entered the Ninkasi Brewery Fresh Flicks outdoor sports video contest. I had two weeks to pumps something out. I didn’t have a camera anymore so I resorted to my hard drive to gather footage that I could piece together for a halfway descent climbing porn. Friends show up to vote and I ended up with 1st prize; Two season passes to Hoodoo and a one year, $1500 sponsorship from Ninkasi Brewery. That’s a lot of beer.  We decided to throw some parties.

The Sunday of last Labor Day weekend offered the perfect time to start it off. I thought Sunday night would be appropriate for a few different reasons. First, less competition for a groovy crowd. Second, two days of climbing in a row at Smith is rough. People are more willing to get rowdy and throw a few back that second night. What better way to spend day three of your crusty vacation than recovering you tendons with a side of hangover. It was like Spring Break in Cabo. Almost. We started off with a reggae band from Bend, The 2nd Hand Soldiers. They killed it. 4 kegs down.

Then comes the Fall. The money time of year. Smith is packed, locals are stuck on their projects, let’s party. I ordered a nice little “potty box”, Kegs, and extreme freak dancers from Vegas. Justin and Andi set up their food cart, SoWild Fish & Chip. We set up the lights, then the bar, and waited. On Saturday, October 8th Tony Smiley had the crown hoppin’. For those of you that don’t know of this man, Tony Smiley is a one man band who packs the dance floor with his mix of  rock, human beat boxing, 80's new wave rhythms, and yes, dash of Mongolian throat singing, combine into one huge mountain of a performance. His songs are original, groove laden works of art that rock. He is a loop ninja. Who doesn’t love ninjas? Five Ten and Metlious Mountain Products hooked up some shoes and gear to raffle off to help support the chaos.

2 kegs and one party left. The next weekend was unbelievable. It was like a Snoop Dogg video. The talented 4 on the Floor showed up and decided to throw a bluegrass tantrum. Clothes were coming off, dirty dancing, people were doing body shots! Something like that.

Huge thanks to Ninkasi Brewery in Eugene, Oregon, Metolius Mountain Products, Five Ten, Tony Smiley, 4 on the Floor, Dearric Winchester, Luke, Jesse and everyone who showed up.

My thoughts? We should do this every season. I think we need a beer sponsorship. Get updated on future parties through our Facebook page.


Cheers.
























Friday, September 23, 2011

Smith Rock Opening Season Party




Opening climbing season at Smith Rock. Come celebrate with live music at an outdoor venue/bar 4-miles from Smith. 

Ear Orgasm: Tony Smiley is a one man band who packs the dance floor show after show. 
His mix of rock, human beat boxing, 80's new wave rhythms, and yes, dash of Mongolian throat singing, 
combine into one huge mountain of a performance. His songs are original, groove laden 
works of art that most importantly, rock! 

Tasty Treats
Also Joining us will be SoWild Fish & Chips food cart owned by local climbers Justin & Andi Brown.  SoNummy.

Snooze
Camping is available just down the road (Lone Pine) at Skull Hollow (aka Grasslands) and at the 
Smith Rock State Park Bivy, 4 miles away. Please be responsible leaving the venue.

We're asking for an optional $5 donation for entry. If you are a total dirtbag and just can't do it, don't worry. You can throw that $5 toward a bottomless Ninkasi beer cup. Start collecting bottles & cans. All proceeds help to cover music, bathrooms and other party expenses. We will not profit. 

Icing on the Cake: FIVE TEN & METOLIUS CLIMBING are kicking down donations items. 
Gear, gift certificates, t-stirts and dank swag.

Please no dogs.


Check this Ninja:


Friday, April 1, 2011

Oreganic Volume 2




The Oreganic Series—Volume 2

It's the beginning of the climbing season for some. Others are stuck in the gym dreaming of the real thing. For the fortunate ones who can ditch their jobs and classes, there's year-round fun chasing the best temps at the best crags.

Home to world-class crack climbing and over 60 bouldering satellites, Oregon hides under the radar of many travelers. The quest for new areas has left many classic crags like Smith Rock forgotten by the climbing masses. Yet there's year-round climbing, time-honored test pieces and stellar untapped projects.

Oreganic Vol.2 leads off with a bit of a twist. A few Bend Dirtbags take it to the neighboring state of Idaho. Ryan Palo briefs us on some basic Boyscout skills before swingin’ like an utter from Riggin’s own limestone cave.

On deck, Ethan Pringle charges Scarface, Smith Rock, with an obscure sequence skipping the famous mono move. Scarface has been recognized as the first 5.14a established by an American on U.S. soil. After Scott Franklin did the first ascent in 1988, Todd Skinner and Throwin’’ The Houlihan in Wild Iris, Wyoming joined the ranks in 1991. After a brief down-rating to 13d, Scarface is still among the most classic hard routes in the world holding it’s grade at 5.14a.

As a closer, Cody Scarpella pushes a new Trout Creek line. Weeks later Cody proudly claimed the first ascent of the ultra-classic May Fly, 5.12+.

Enjoy.

Music:
MarvEllis  www.marvellis.com (opening instumental)
Medium Troy  www.mediumtroy.com

Film/Edit: Greg Garretson

Monday, January 24, 2011

Oreganic Volume 1, Smith Rocks




The Oreganic Series--a historical and fresh film series of the best climbing spots in Oregon.

It's the beginning of the climbing season for some. Others are stuck in the gym dreaming of the real thing. For the fortunate ones who can ditch their jobs and classes, there's year-round fun chasing the best temps at the best crags.



Home to world-class crack climbing and over 60 bouldering satellites, Oregon hides under the radar of many travelers. The quest for new areas has left many classic crags like Smith Rock forgotten by the climbing masses. Yet there's year-round climbing--time-honored test pieces and stellar untapped projects.

The new Oreganic video series explores the excitement that is Oregon climbing. From finger pimpin’ to playground stunts, the series focuses on a variety of climbing and lifestyle. The man behind the camera, Greg Garretson, follows living legends to unsung powerhouses through the Oregon experience.

Whether you're facebooking at work or living the "freebird" lifestyle, the Oreganic Video series will put a smile on your face. Enjoy.

Monkey Swing: Adam Ermatinger




Climbing
Aggro Monkey: Jonathan Siegrist
Chemical Ali: Ryan Palo
Rude Boys: Luke Neufeld-Cumming

Slackline: Joel Springer

Music: Marv Ellis, Dreamcatcher Juice
Film/Edit: Greg Garretson

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Jesse, Day In The Life




Jesse & I put this video together in a fews days of filming with a GoPro and editing. This was birthday present for him mom. Jesse has been climbing on the road for a while and settled in Central Oregon. This was also a great way to show his distant family a "day in the Life".
Enjoy

International Documentary Competition 2009

Iproject is a short created by Greg Ouellette for an International Documentary Competition in 2009. He had 5 days to set up, film and edit a short. I thought he did a wonderful job other than the casting. 

Iproject

Oregon Sessions with Ben Moon

When I first heard of Ben, I was taking an extended break from climbing. During this party endeavor, rumors passed around that Ben Moon was living in Bend and working at Metolius. Weird. Why would the British powerhouse move to Bend? There's gotta be an explanation. Well, there's two Moons orbiting the climbing world. A common confusion among climbers. I later learned more and more about Ben Moon "The Photographer". Quickly, I learned that he was also a very talented climber. I've watched Ben hike stout, forgotten pitches to get the creative angle. I've watched him battle with the best for first ascents at Trout Creek. He's a survivor, a great friend, and a dedicated artist of many mediums.

These are some Oregon sessions with Ben Moon.


Central Oregon offers a number of riverside bouldering satellites. Basalt and Tuff. Some areas won't see a climber for months.

A newer problem. Seasonal.


Logan Carr on the 420 Problem
Remembering the Class of '96

Final move of 444 Riverside.
Logan cuttin'. So awesome. 
 


Ben, Luke Neufeld-Cumming and yours truly enjoying the exposed Backbone of the Monkey Face, Smith Rock State Park. I don't have photos of Luke. His turned out real nice. Ben has one up on his site.



Ethan Pringle on Scarface (14a) 
Tim Garland on Double Stain (13b R)

Ben has a new website. It's out of control. 

Strait outta.... Comptucky.

The Dinosaur
Duncan "The Baby" Van Horn on Orange Juice
                                 
                                   Palo Redpointing Ultra-perm (13d)
Dan, Gerloch and Palo killing time in Miguel's Vanland.
Karaoke & Intoxication. Lexington. 
Team Canada member, Luke Zimmerman joins forces with Birdie and GG.
Punting.
Canadian Amber King living the dream.
White Mans Overbite (bitchslap)

Table of Colors
Wolf Run Lake, minutes from Miguel's 
Dr. Matthew Gerlach
Swiss Alex on To Many Puppies

























Madness.




Halloween. Red River Gorge, Fall 2010

Pawel Szafruga

Old Gregg & his Super Girl Team

Vato Loco. Dario Ventura

  Colby and Joe. 

Old Gregg battling for the trophy (free rope)

My competition. 1st place. Awesome.