Monday, January 24, 2011

Oreganic Volume 1, Smith Rocks




The Oreganic Series--a historical and fresh film series of the best climbing spots in Oregon.

It's the beginning of the climbing season for some. Others are stuck in the gym dreaming of the real thing. For the fortunate ones who can ditch their jobs and classes, there's year-round fun chasing the best temps at the best crags.



Home to world-class crack climbing and over 60 bouldering satellites, Oregon hides under the radar of many travelers. The quest for new areas has left many classic crags like Smith Rock forgotten by the climbing masses. Yet there's year-round climbing--time-honored test pieces and stellar untapped projects.

The new Oreganic video series explores the excitement that is Oregon climbing. From finger pimpin’ to playground stunts, the series focuses on a variety of climbing and lifestyle. The man behind the camera, Greg Garretson, follows living legends to unsung powerhouses through the Oregon experience.

Whether you're facebooking at work or living the "freebird" lifestyle, the Oreganic Video series will put a smile on your face. Enjoy.

Monkey Swing: Adam Ermatinger




Climbing
Aggro Monkey: Jonathan Siegrist
Chemical Ali: Ryan Palo
Rude Boys: Luke Neufeld-Cumming

Slackline: Joel Springer

Music: Marv Ellis, Dreamcatcher Juice
Film/Edit: Greg Garretson

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Jesse, Day In The Life




Jesse & I put this video together in a fews days of filming with a GoPro and editing. This was birthday present for him mom. Jesse has been climbing on the road for a while and settled in Central Oregon. This was also a great way to show his distant family a "day in the Life".
Enjoy

International Documentary Competition 2009

Iproject is a short created by Greg Ouellette for an International Documentary Competition in 2009. He had 5 days to set up, film and edit a short. I thought he did a wonderful job other than the casting. 

Iproject

Oregon Sessions with Ben Moon

When I first heard of Ben, I was taking an extended break from climbing. During this party endeavor, rumors passed around that Ben Moon was living in Bend and working at Metolius. Weird. Why would the British powerhouse move to Bend? There's gotta be an explanation. Well, there's two Moons orbiting the climbing world. A common confusion among climbers. I later learned more and more about Ben Moon "The Photographer". Quickly, I learned that he was also a very talented climber. I've watched Ben hike stout, forgotten pitches to get the creative angle. I've watched him battle with the best for first ascents at Trout Creek. He's a survivor, a great friend, and a dedicated artist of many mediums.

These are some Oregon sessions with Ben Moon.


Central Oregon offers a number of riverside bouldering satellites. Basalt and Tuff. Some areas won't see a climber for months.

A newer problem. Seasonal.


Logan Carr on the 420 Problem
Remembering the Class of '96

Final move of 444 Riverside.
Logan cuttin'. So awesome. 
 


Ben, Luke Neufeld-Cumming and yours truly enjoying the exposed Backbone of the Monkey Face, Smith Rock State Park. I don't have photos of Luke. His turned out real nice. Ben has one up on his site.



Ethan Pringle on Scarface (14a) 
Tim Garland on Double Stain (13b R)

Ben has a new website. It's out of control. 

Strait outta.... Comptucky.

The Dinosaur
Duncan "The Baby" Van Horn on Orange Juice
                                 
                                   Palo Redpointing Ultra-perm (13d)
Dan, Gerloch and Palo killing time in Miguel's Vanland.
Karaoke & Intoxication. Lexington. 
Team Canada member, Luke Zimmerman joins forces with Birdie and GG.
Punting.
Canadian Amber King living the dream.
White Mans Overbite (bitchslap)

Table of Colors
Wolf Run Lake, minutes from Miguel's 
Dr. Matthew Gerlach
Swiss Alex on To Many Puppies

























Madness.




Halloween. Red River Gorge, Fall 2010

Pawel Szafruga

Old Gregg & his Super Girl Team

Vato Loco. Dario Ventura

  Colby and Joe. 

Old Gregg battling for the trophy (free rope)

My competition. 1st place. Awesome.


Wednesday, January 12, 2011

To the East, driver to the east.


Those close to me know I’ve been obsessing on my new 2005 GMC Safari Van with intentions of trippin’ East for the Fall.  


I sometimes wonder if my financial priorities were a little off? How much time and money did I invest into this radical condo on wheels? The way I see it, If I go broke I have a place to live. An upperclass, dirtbag Vansion. So far I've been on the road for 49 days including the Salmon River trip. The Vansion has offered nothing but comfort and reliability. The full conversion; Lets start with the 2" body lift and my mini big-boy tires (additional 4" clearance), swivel passenger seat, deep cycle battery power with cornucopia of electronic pleasure (plugs, power cooler, tubes lights, toggles, etc), an Ikea futon with a memory foam frosting, mmmmmm, strategic storage, rocket box, and many other details to equal the comfort I've been spraying about. So, the next big question you probably have, what does Greg call this fabulous mobile palace? 
Tara, GG, Brian & Matt. Spandex day.
Well, I'd like some help with that one. Nothing has stuck yet. Let the Vansion name contest begin. The winner gets an autographed poster of yours truly in spandex laying across the hood. Ok, enough. Moving on. 

Leaving Central Oregon was tough and my mind was on a different planet due to some recent changes in my life. With the help of wonderful friends, my to do list was cut down and a sense of relief had overcome many stresses. 
I started this journey with a 7-day, 100-mile white water rafting trip on Idaho's Wild & Scenic Salmon River. With a great group of old & new friends, we enjoyed big & technical white water, sandy beach camping, hot springs, sweat lodge and some granite deep water soloing. Ruby was so cute in her new Ruff Wear lifejacket (Thanks Tara). When we got off the river we decided to spend the night in Riggins, an even more "backwoods" version of the famous river town Maupin, Oregon. We made some new friends at the Rodeo Club bar and called it a night. Well I did. It seems that one of the crew was still going. Mistaking the corner of the Hotel room for the toilet in his sleep. I won't mention any names. Classic. 

Shakeface Idaho





Riggins, Idaho. What!? I’ve been to this little shanty river town on four different occasions this summer. The climbing kicks serious ass. Like I said in my past Riggins blog, it’s a f-in’ drillfest. An ethical nightmare. A total product of the 90’s. But the climbing is awesome and it’s blazing hot at every other crag in the Northwest states. I see it as a place to get strong instead of hanging out in the sweltering rock gym.

I met my good friends Logan & Aura Carr along with their future star infant, little Ukiah. Logan has worked amongst some Riggins old-schoolers, Mike Stoger , Will Nazarian & Jason Karn, and heard all about it. I recall Will telling me that’s where he got in incredible shape before his successful trip to Rifle. Off the couch, then two days on in the cave equals full-body soreness. What next? One of the nicest hot springs I’ve ever experienced. A few miles North of McCall Idaho, I just couldn’t believe I had it all to myself. Even Ruby had a Soak in her own pool. I wish I had a picture of her relaxing. I suppose it shouldn’t be so hard to get her in the bathtub from now on. 

The white line fever started to kick in pretty early in the trip. No, not cocaine relapse silly, white lines on the highway. Like in all those old country songs? Drivin' trucks, chasin' rodeos, racin' the wind? Or maybe those good ol' boys were high as shit. Whatever. I made it Boulder just in time to keep my homie from going "Boulder" crazy. You've all heard the rumors. Cody Scarpella was now living it. I think he was just starting to get psyched on the area, Eldorado to be specific. 
Cody Scarpella on Mayfly, 12+
Cody has been pushing the standards at Trout Creek, Oregon for a number of years now. From ground zero, I've watch this kid blast though some hard, scary lines. Apparently, once you get good at rock climbing, you move to Boulder, ha. We got a few pitches in at Boulder Canyon (due to convenience of course) and ran into only two people, people we knew! Random. Sarah Watson and Lizzy Scully. Two lovely girls. Sarah spent a few days at Trout a few years back, hiking the hard splitters. Very talented. 

I managed to escape Boulder with no intentions of being converted. Here we go. The long haul down the longest, straightest road I've ever seen. My itrip was almost useless due to the FM radio clog of Jesus propaganda. I have nothing against it, except when it's jammed in my ears over and over in the middle of my Pink Floyd session, in Kansas. You don't interrupt Roger Waters. Sacrileg. Kansas sucked ass (sorry Ashley). Missouri... Come on. Really? I got pulled over twice within 30 minutes. Apparently Oregonians have a similar reputation as the Nor Cal neighbors. The first cop made me sit in his car. Grilled me like an overdone steak. Who the hell likes overdone steak. No problem though. I had nothing to hide, ha ha. It did blow my mind when he asked me strait up if I was moving pounds or kilos. Ha ha. Yeah, Oregon has a great cocaine distribution program. Almost legal with medical cards right? Same story 30 minutes later. Luckily I couldn't find the other half of my hippy-speedball recipe, which turned out to be in a pretty obvious place. He released me after I told him his cronie down the road already gave me the run-around. Southern Illinois was a little more scenic with the start of the color change. And finally! The Whiskey state! Welcome to Ol' Kentucky! Bluegrass and country songs started coming to me like debt collectors and Missouri bacon. The last leg. I almost drove across the country. Does this count? When I pulled on to Mountain Parkway (40 mins to Miguel's) I was glowing, so was Ruby.

Climbing in Riggins, Idaho

July 6-11, 2010. Ryan Palo, my good friend and climbing partner, is leaving us. He packed his bags in search for a new chapter of traveling and career. After years of hearing about a heavily engineered limestone cave outside of Riggins, Palo and I thought it would be a nice way to start this chapter. We packed and bailed faster than a fat kid eats Twinkies. After an 8 hours drive we were able to get some pitches in before dark. Two days on, rest day, then 2 more days on. During that time, we both redpointed a route called Tractor Boy, 5.13c. Palo, with his mutant strength, also quickly sent Boo, 5.13c. We a met few dudes from Spokane that frequent the crag. They gave us a lot of insight and history of the area. 
Palo in the Bat Hang
We enjoyed our stay in Riggins area. The scenery is great, people are nice, and the Salmon River is… do I need to say? The climbing is some of the funnest ever, despite the manufacturing. I would never approve of manufacturing but ethics back then were a little different. I little more rebellious.  What’s done is done. The pockets are sinker.

Tractor Boy














Ryan Palo on Boo

Summer Games Party

July 3, 2010: Ahhh yeah, you all remember field day in grade school, summer camp or whatever. Now that we’re adults (figuratively speaking), we seem to get our entertainment in other ways now. Well, we combined these two worlds together and hosted the First Annual Smith Rock Summer Games plus Jenny Trembley’s Birthday and Ryan Palo’s going away!  So fun.
Teams of 2, $130 cash for the highest points. 3-legged Race, Bat Spin, White Trash Horseshoes (toilet seats), and Freestyle Slip’n Slide. We had a 2 way tie for 1st and for 2nd.  We split the cash so people could take the evening to the next level. Bonfire & music, camping, Barbq , keg &  bar, shake-face & haircuts all over the place. Friends from all over showed up and help empty the 25 bottles and half a keg. 


Good job team. Stay tuned for the next party, live music maybe?